Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Ramadan Diary ~ Ramadan and the Lack of Beach Culture!

With temperatures in Fez reach above 40 degrees Celsius, one might have expected an exit in favour of one of Morocco's many beautiful beaches. No - even though it is the holiday season, it is also Ramadan. And, for some reason, Ramadan and swimming don't seem to mix.


Our special beach Reporter, Sue Bail, reports from Rabat that the beach is virtually empty.

Thankfully, she knew we would want a full report, so, appropriately dressed in a burkini,  she braved the waters of the Atlantic and reports... "It is very wet, and very cool."

You have to love such an in-depth report

Rabat beach prior to Ramadan (left) and during Ramadan (right)

So, the lack of people on the beach? Is it a religious thing? Probably not, because for someone wanting modest beachwear, the answer is a burkini.

A Lebanese-Australian designer, six years ago created the controversial burkini, says that despite the controversy she is designing a similar one for men.

Ahiida Massoud Zanetti, 41, who owns a company that specializes in Islamic swimwear and sportswear, says she first designed the Islamic swim suit while she was working as a hairdresser and added it was only meant to be for personal use.


"I wanted to swim, but since I am Muslim I can't be half naked on the beach"

"I wanted to swim, but since I am Muslim I can't be half naked on the beach," Zanetti told Al Arabiya. "So, I decided to design a bathing suit that preserves Muslim modesty."

Zanetti said it all started with friends and relatives asking her to make them what would later become nicknamed burkini, a mix between the word burka, a loose outer garment worn my Muslim women, and bikini.

The burkini covers the entire body except the face and it looks more or less like a full-length wetsuit except it is manufactured of lighter material that makes swimming easier.

According to our beach reporter, Sue Bail, it also stops sand getting into annoying places.

Zanetti said that after the huge success of the burkini she is now working on designing a similar one for men so they can look "more decent" on the beach.

"All men's bathing suits, regardless of their type, are revealing. A conservative woman with a burkini would most likely be embarrassed to see men's bodies in that way."

The male bathing suit Zanetti is designing will cover what other suits reveal thus making men look more modest and women feel more comfortable on the beach.

Despite the success she is currently enjoying, Zanetti said she was disappointed in the way the Arab media handled her project.

"Although the burkini stirred controversy in the West to the extent that some countries have banned it, not one Arab or Muslim channel or newspaper contacted me about the issue."

Meanwhile... in Verona, Italy, a Moroccan woman was asked to leave a municipal swimming pool because she was wearing a ‘burkini,’ an ‘Islamically correct’ swimsuit. The reason was that she “frightened the children.”

The same thing happened a few days earlier not far from Paris. The xenophobe right exalted, the media made comments ranging from expressing concern to amusement, while the public debated the matter. Can the ‘burkini’ really be considered a “Islamic” swimsuit? Does it humiliate women? In the meantime, in Afghanistan...

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Staying Fit While Fasting - Ramadan and Sport



Ramadan and physical exercise

Many Moroccans choose to exercise during Ramadan in order to both stay fit and to keep their weight under control. But there is a debate to be had abour the compatibility of Ramadan and sport.



Football, jogging, weight-lifting or any physical exertion while fasting is not without risks.But then this is the sport and Ramadan are compatible?. A simple question simple answer. "Sport and Ramadan are compatible and even without any risk," says Boujamaa Zahi, a specialist in sports medicine, stressing, however, that there are several "words of caution".

Before starting any exercise program in the searing heat during Ramadan , a doctor's consultation, clinical assessment is needed.

"People who are not accustomed to physical exertion must go slowly and simply walking initially for a period of less than 40 min per day, just before breaking the fast," says the former -doctor of the national football team, currently president of the Moroccan Federation of Sports Medicine. "For the elderly, it is recommended that the sports group to assist each other in case of discomfort, focus on practical outdoor and avoid extreme heat days," advises Dr. Zahi.

During Ramadan another dilemma exists.  For people with diabetes, fasting may be extremely harmful." Normally, sport is highly recommended for diabetics and may even promote hormonal balance, but it depends on the type of diabetes, the patient's age and whether or not there are other health problems," says Dr. Jamila Rhandi, an endocrinologist in Rabat.

"There is no specific sports advise for people with diabetes. Individuals who do not have the habit of sport and who choose to start a sports activity in the month of Ramadan are required to start slowly and pay close attention to their blood sugar levels in the blood."  she added, while stressing the need to break the fast at the slightest concern.

Regarding the favorable period for the sport, Dr. Rhandi advocates that the optimum time to do this is two or three hours after Ftour, the person having eaten and taken a sufficient amount of water, noting that it would be always better to train in quite ventilated areas."The main dangers with diabetes are hypoglycemia and renal failure due to dehydration, I advise people to consult a doctor before Ramadan, to draw to a medical evaluation, choosing a good time in the day for sports and drinking a lot of water after Iftar, "stressed Dr. Rhandi.


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Morocco's National Day - Message from US President Obama


John Kerry, US Secretary of State has delivered a message to King Mohammed VI and the Moroccan people

On behalf of President Obama and the American people, I offer warm wishes to King Mohammed VI and the Moroccan people as you celebrate your national day this July 30 
When Morocco granted American merchant ships safe passage after the outbreak of the American Revolution, it signaled the beginning of a strong and enduring friendship. We are also proud that the Moroccan city of Tangier is home to our oldest diplomatic property in the world.
After more than 225 years of friendship and peace, we continue to work together to expand trade, promote stability in the region, and enhance mutual understanding between our nations.
During this time of profound change in the region, the United States supports Morocco’s ongoing efforts to strengthen the rule of law, human rights, and good governance. We look forward to building on our long history of relations as we work together to advance common goals.
As you gather with family and friends on this special day, the United States wishes you a future of peace and prosperity. Ramadan Mubarak.


Also - this week in History - July 29

1907 - French fleet bombards Casablanca, northwest Morocco, following anti-foreign outbreaks.

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Saturday, July 27, 2013

Ramadan Diary ~ The Case of the Rubber Duck of Ramadan

In the latest leaked report from the Ramadan Diary, our anonymous diarist reveals that when the going gets weird, the weird get going.



Okay, I admit it. I lost it today. Or, to be clinically accurate, I lost it last night and today. Not that I broke the fast, or anything like that, unless you count having vivid dreams about chocolate ice cream sundaes to be fast breaking. In reality what I lost was my sense of time and all of my food.

I had enjoyed a great evening with my slightly weird American friend Doug. We ate a heap of food, watched a movie and then ate some more. I staggered up to bed for a snooze about midnight. Doug said he would let himself out.

It was probably 1.30 in the morning and the canon went off.  My house is directly in the line of fire from the canon. In fact only the day before a friend visiting from Poland was so startled by the sound of the canon blast echoing around the Medina he actually asked where the cannonballs land. I pointed out that they don't use canonballs. He seemed somewhat relieved.

So, there I am, in bed, enjoying a dream about chocolate eclairs and whipped cream, when the cannon startles me awake. I close my eyes and promise myself just a few more minutes sleep when the drumming of the D'kak makes the idea impossible. Why is it he starts his drumming right outside my door? Is it intentional? Have I somehow offended him and he is taking revenge? And another thing. Shouldn't he have moved on and woken up a few more people? He stays outside my door for the longest time.

Eventually I got up and staggered downstairs to the kitchen only to find that I have already drunk the last of the almond milk and that the preparations for my next batch are still soaking.

Uninviting... and soggy

Blanched almonds that have been soaking for hours do not look inviting. I try one. It tastes like it looks - soggy.

Okay what about the avocado smoothie? Alas, the empty jug is in the sink waiting for me to wash it. And all the food I had ready for my big meal is gone. I realise it was a mistake leaving Doug in the house while there was still something left to eat.

Earlier in the evening, because Doug was visiting, I had turned down an invitation to have a hearty meal of trid with my neighbour. How can I have been so stupid?

Eggs? Thankfully I find that there is one remaining boiled egg. Suddenly I am feeling awake and happy. An egg is good. Nutritious and dipped in a little salt, it will be tasty. Gleefully I crack it open on the marble bench top. Which would have been fine if it had been hard boiled. I watch in dismay as the last remaining egg slides over the bench top and deposits itself on the kitchen floor. What I said next is unprintable.

However, the cat cleans up efficiently and then looks up at me, pleading for an encore. No way cat.

It is now 2.15 am. I walk out into the courtyard and feed the cat some dried biscuits. They look strangely appetising.

The aroma in the courtyard is like a cruel joke. I don't know what it is about the smell of food in Fez, but in that moment the cool night air is wafting cooking smells from all the houses around me. Tagine. Kefta. Roast chicken. Trid... There should be a law to prevent such olfactory intrusions into my private space.

Almost 2.30 and I suddenly remember that I bought some cornflakes a couple of days earlier. Yay! Cornflakes! I hurry back to the kitchen, grab a bowl and open the packet. It is then I discover that I have purchased some kind of weird coco-flakes. Chocolate covered... not what I need, not what I want, and even with the remainder of a tub of yogurt, sickly sweet. The yogurt might be okay with honey, I decide. But then see the use-by date. Should have eaten it last Ramadan when it was fresh.

2.50 am. At this point I am not amused. Yesterday's baguette is uneaten. It remains so. I have no idea who invented the baguette, but the thing I have always admired about them is that if you don't eat the straight away they become very useful as baseball bats or truncheons.

At that point in the evenings proceedings I see the plate on the table. It is wrapped in is silver paper and beside it is piece of paper. The writing on the paper I recognise as that of my friend Doug. The single word he has written is "enjoy".

I am salivating, wondering, starving. I rip open the aluminium foil. I am including a photograph at this point, otherwise there might be some doubt as to my sanity.

Nice one Doug

Needless to say, I was mightily amused - not!

To make matters worse, the bloody rubber chicken made a squeaking noise when I picked it up. It startled the cat, who ran from the room. I threw the chicken after it. It squeaked as it landed.

At the bottom of the plate is another note. It has two words: "Upstairs Fridge".

I trudged up the stairs and discovered that Doug's big joke has been to transfer all my food - smoothies, almond milk, hard boiled eggs, dates, fresh yogurt and a bar of New Zealand Hokey-pokey chocolate - to the top fridge. I look at my watch. It is 3.20 am. I have ten minutes to eat.

Nice one Doug.

Revenge, as they say, is a dish best served cold. What they don't say, but I know to be true, is in Doug's case it will involve a rubber duck and, sure as hell, he won't be eating it.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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Friday, July 26, 2013

Riad Security Warning in Fez


Last night thieves broke into Dar Roumana. They obviously knew the property as they went straight to the office and stole a lap top, red petty cash box and took the safe, containing cheque books, keys and a large amount of cash. Some of the cash was business money, some was personal savings as well as savings being stored for staff.

If anyone knows or hears any information which may be of use in capturing the culprits, please contact Dar Roumana. +212 (0)6 60 29 04 04 (mobile) or +212 (0)5 35 741 637

It is a timely warning to look to your own security, in case these people try other guest houses. They managed to break the lock on Dar Roumana's front door - so please make sure your houses and offices are secure, and especially if you are closing for holidays, make sure nothing valuable is left on the property.

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Morocco's Kafala Crisis Deepens

Morocco's new restrictive adoption laws are causing pain and suffering, not only for the children, but also to the parents waiting to give the children a family and a home.  To make matters worse the number of children awaiting adoption is increasing every day and many of the orphanages are struggling to cope


Monica Díaz first met her adopted son Abdallatif in an orphanage in Rabat when he was not even a month old, and now,  nearly two years on, new adoption laws in Morocco mean she hasn't been able to take him back home with her to the Spanish region of Catalonia.

"They've asked us to be patient, but it’s been nearly 22 months of suffering," she told Catalan daily La Vanguardia.

Monica, who is self-employed and used to pay Abdallatif regular visits in the early stages of the adoption, has now had to move to Rabat to ensure her son is not taken away from her.

Along with 50 other families, she is waiting for a signature on her son’s passport which will allow him to leave Morocco.

What was once a relatively straight-forward adoption procedure has been hindered by a change of government in the North African country.

Abdelilah Benkirane's moderate Islamist Justice and Development Party, which has ruled since late 2011, introduced a new law which prevents non-residents from adopting Moroccan children.

"They don’t want to sign my son’s leaving permit," Maribel, a Basque woman who shares a flat with Mónica in Rabat, told La Vanguardia.

The more than 20 Spanish families living in Rabat who find themselves in the same “desperate situation” are in regular talks with the Spanish Embassy in Morocco to ensure the new law isn't applied retroactively.

"We're not going to abandon our children, as desperate as we may be," Maribel explains.

Adoptions in Morocco take the form of Kafala, by which the adoptive parent is seen more as a guardian and children keep their Muslim names to guarantee they don't forget their roots or religion.

In most cases Kafala is restricted to Muslims or converts to Islam.

Hopefully during this month of Ramadan, saner heads will prevail and Moroccan orphans can once again find homes and happiness.

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New Moroccan Banknotes To Be Released On August 15th


The Moroccan Bank Al Maghreb is to release a new series of banknotes. According to Youssef El Kaidi writing for the authorative, Morocco World News, the new notes will be on the streets starting from August 15. The series of banknotes included notes of 200, 100, 50 and 20 dirhams



In a press conference held Wednesday in Salé, Mr. Lahcen Hadaoun, director of Dar As-Sikkah announced the issuance of approximately 20 million new banknotes by Bank Al Maghreb (Moroccan central banlk to strengthen security, improve the durability of the notes, optimize the flow by looking for a better control of the costs of production and processing, as well as improving the readability of the notes by the controllers and machines.

The new notes will ultimately be safer and more difficult to fake according by the director of Dar As-Sikkah. As for the general themes that characterize the design and printing of the new banknotes series, values such as development and modernity, solidarity, diversity and openness were apparently promoted through different symbols.

The new banknotes also reflect Morocco’s cultural and geographic diversity by featuring cities of Casablanca and Rabat in the MAD 20 note, the Argan tree of the Sous region and Ouzoud waterfalls of Azilal in the MAD 50 note, the sand dunes and desert life referring to the Moroccan Sahara in the MAD100 note and Tangier-Med port and Cape Spartel Lighthouse in the MAD 200 note.

The MAD 200 note will be circulated as soon as August 15, 2013 on the occasion of the Feast of the Throne, while the issue of the MAD 100 is planned in conjunction with the celebration of Youth Day. As for the MAD 50 note, it will be circulated on the occasion of the anniversary of the Green March. The last note of this series, the MAD 20 will be issued on the occasion of the Independence Day.

Article from Morocco World News reposted with permission

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Thursday, July 25, 2013

Ramadan Diary ~ A Night at Home


Our last Ramadan Diary caused a flood of emails saying it's fine to hear what men talk about through the long Ramadan nights, but what about the women? Not a problem, today's Ramadan Diary comes to us courtesy of Fatima Zahra and her friends in Ziat


Around 9pm the men trouped out for coffee. I suggested that we could have made some at home, but they wanted to smoke and talk with their friends, and, as they pointed out, making coffee would just be another burden on top of cleaning up the table and doing the dishes. And of course there is the evening meal to prepare. So much better for them to be out of the house.

But we don't totally clean up, not yet. My friend Sara, who is visiting from France, fetches a jug of Laban Al Loz (flavoured almond milkand Majdouline and Fatima wipe the table.
The dishes can wait.
"Moroccan women are amazing," Sara says, "If my husband did that I would kill him."
Of course she doesn't mean it, well, not literally.

 From a house in the next street we can hear shouting. An argument has been going on for most of the afternoon. Thankfully they paused to break their fast.

"Ramadan," Majdouline sighs, "I hate the way people get short-tempered."
Sara pours the laban. It is cool and delicious. "Did you hear that the Christian Pope has got himself a Moroccan woman?"

Francesca Chaouqui - lawyer and financial genius!

There is a moment of jaw-dropping silence. She looks at our shocked faces and she blushes. "No! Not like that!"
"Well?"
"She's a finance genius and will be working to restructure the Vatican economy."
Majdouline wipes some laban from her mouth. "I read that. Francesca..."
"Chaouqui," Sara says.
"That is so good!" Fatima exclaims.
"What? That she got the job?"
"No, the laban. Delicious."
"It has orange flower water and a tiny pinch of cinnamon."
Fatima frowns. "Does it make you fat?"
"Fat is good." I say, having just read something about the women in the Moroccan Sahara. "In the Sahara they actually feed the girls up to make them fat." Nobody seems to believe me, so I explain that it is even worse in Mauritania where young girls are brutally force-fed a diet of up to 16,000 calories a day — more than four times that of a male bodybuilder — to prepare them for marriage. They still don't believe me so I pour some more laban. "Anyway this almond milk has no cholesterol."

"What about that Dounia!"

"What about that Dounia!" Sara says.
Around the table you can almost hear the sound of eyes rolling.
"What a hussy," Fatima says dismissively.
"Hush your mouth, honey," Majdouline says in near perfect American accented English. "The dear sweet thing is in lurve!"

The conversation about Moroccan singer, the Dounia Batma, goes on for the longest time. Her announcement that she is going to marry a man who is already married has sparked a debate throughout the country and even caused heated arguments between people with differing views.

Fatima fetches her laptop and searches for something she had been reading. "According to this, her man, Mohammed Alttork, has already spent around £210 000 on Dounia’s wedding ring, reportedly bought from Chaumet Paris. And, get this, Dounia’s wedding dress will costs about £1 000 000."
"How much is that in Dirhams?' Sara asks.
"A lot."

A segment of the Moroccan population responding to Dounia’s marriage argue that her disregard for his current marital status is detrimental to Morocco’s image in the Arab world and even internationally. The main argument of this segment of the Moroccan population is that Dounia’s approval of being a second wife to an ostensibly rich Gulf man only reinforces the notorious, destructive stereotypes about Moroccan women being “men robbers.” This is also said to solidify the annihilative stereotype that Moroccan women are only after foreign people’s wealth and influence.

Her consent to be the second wife of a man is, according to some Moroccans, an official reinforcement of patriarchal principles related to marital life, in which men phallocentrically enjoy the right to marry as many women as they please, something that is seen as confirming their patriarchal hegemony and superiority over the other gender.

In light of this argument, Dounia’s decision to marry a man who is already bound to another woman pulls feminist struggles against patriarchy back to the medieval ages, since her consent appears voluntary and stems out of her own conviction. Whether Alttork had the consent of his first wife and his little daughter, and whether Dounia has ever shown any concern for the first wife’s rights and opinion are all details the couple maintain undisclosed. With these details left concealed, Dounia’s relationship with Alttork is conceived of as a “fishy” affair.

As I said, there was a lot to talk about. And, that's what I love about Ramadan. It is a chance to get together with friends I only see once a year and to talk about whatever we like.

The men make a noisy entrance into the room. I don't know what they've been talking about, but they go through to the kitchen and to my surprise I can hear them washing the dishes. Humdullilah.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY


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Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Ramadan Diary ~ Midnight feasts and Cosmetics


While there are officially only two meals a day during Ramadan, there is a lot of other eating that goes on in the middle of the night. Today's Ramadan Diary looks at meals, snacks and the latest hot gossip from Afghanistan...



Only Two meals a day - Lftour and Suhoor?  

As soon as the sun sets, the Athan (call to prayer) is recited from the minarets and in Fez the traditional “Ramadan Cannon” is fired from the Southern Fort to announce the breaking of the fast - the moment you can start eating iftar or as the locals call it, Lftour.

Lftour starts with dates and milk or the avocado smoothie Fez is famous for. Then there's bread (at least three kinds), pastries, and hard boiled eggs and of course harira soup.

Religiously, before Muslims break the fast, they say certain prayers like, “Allahuma inni laka sumtu wa ‘ala rizqika aftartu” (O Allah! for thy sake I have fasted and now I break the fast with the food that comes from thee).

The second meal is Suhoor, the meal that nobody wants to miss.

A rare sight - Yassine Boudouàià - a young D'kak in the Fez Medina

To make certain you don't miss this meal is the job of the Bou Damdoum in Amazigh or D’kak in Moroccan Arabic, (the drummer), who uses his drums or N’ffar (a long horn that makes buzzing sound) to guarantee that everyone in the neighbourhood wakes up in time to cook and then enjoys their Suhoor meal.

Suhoor is eaten early in the morning before the Fajr prayer. The whole purpose of Suhoor is to provide people fasting with enough nourishment and energy to keep them going for the next 16 hours. During those hours an overwhelming majority of Moroccans will abstain from food, drink, cigarettes and sex.


Popular dishes for Suhoor include meat tagines, entire chickens and vegetables. In accordance with the Prophet's saying, “Tasaharu fa ina fi Assuhoori Baraka,” (Do have Suhoor for there are blessings in it), Muslim devotees never deliberately miss such a meal.


Of course I was not quite accurate when I said "two meals". Yes, sure, just two? You have to be kidding. The amount of food and drink consumed during the evening and morning hours may be concentrated on the two main meals, But, in between those two meals, snacking is a high art form.

And I am not talking just traditional mint tea, Coke, Sprite and a few mouthfuls of  Sellu (Zmita) or Shebakia, one of the most artistic manifestations of Moroccan cuisine. I am talking about sweet flights of fantasy, honey coated and twisted like a Chinese puzzle. And it's all different.

"Try this. Simple almond paste and honey. My mother made it." It's certainly good. "Not like in the souk for twenty dirhams a kilo. No,.." My informant leans forward to confide in me. "This would be one hundred dirhams a kilo ... if you could buy it".

And with all the eating (yes, I'd love a little more pistachio ice cream, thanks) and smoking, there is much to talk about. Tonight the chat is about... (hang on while I pour some coffee and pass the cakes)... make-up.  The Afgan Mullahs have discovered make up. Not that they wear it, but they have found out that Afghan women were wearing it. How they managed to find out, given the Afghan burqa is pretty concealing, one wonders. (Pass the bottle of Hawaii, please)...  So, they have discovered make-up and decided they don't like it. And the reason is something we have all suspected for a long time. Wearing make-up leads to adultery and that is something they certainly don't like.

In their collective wisdom, the mullahs in the north have released an eight-point fatwa that includes such progressive prohibitions as forbidding women to go "outside" without a male escort. Note to self: male escort service could be a winner in Afghanistan. It also restricts women's clothing and promises  "punishments" if they do not comply with the new rules and threatens violence if disobeyed: "If officials do react to our demands, we will start a jihad, "  says cleric Zmarai, in the Deh Salah area of Baghlan Province.

Happily the locals are not all in agreement. In fact, a local  Deh Salah mayor Abdul Rassoul was killed on July 6 as he campaigned to close cosmetic stores. He was allegedly shot down by an angry shopkeeper.

The Taliban ruled Afghanistan from 1996 until 2001, during which time Afghan women had virtually no rights. Some think the new fatwa is an attempt to turn back the clock. "They want to bring back the Taliban days," claimed a cosmetic shop owner called Abdullah. "We are poor people and they have closed me down," he said, adding: "I want the government to take action or we are going to have mullahs running the place like the Taliban again."

Well at least some moral support is coming to the cosmetics industry in the shape of a proclamation by Dubai's Grand Mufti. Dr Ali Ahmed Mashael, who says: "Using a deodorant does not break the fast, However, if incense is deliberately inhaled, then it violates the rules of fasting". Well, I am glad we have cleared that up.

We discuss all of this for hours, while eating and drinking more mint tea than is healthy. At last Mustapha sums up. "Thanks be to God we live in Morocco where people are reasonable, happy and not extreme." Al Humdullilah to that.

I can hear the D'kak drumming his way towards us. Now, would you please pass me those chocolate biscuits?

2 am and the children dance with Yassine Boudouàià, the D'kak


See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Ramadan Diary ~ A Cup Half Full or Half Empty?


It is halfway through Ramadan and tonight people are celebrating. In today's excerpt from the Ramadan Diary we discover a random act of kindness and a religious expert who says Muslims should not watch TV series during Ramadan



A random act of kindness

7.36 pm. The canon at the Southern Fort had belched forth its flash of fire and huge bang - al humdullilah - and we had just sat down to break our fast.  The kind folks at Riad Rcif had invited me and the iftar table was laden with food and beverages. The cake had just come out of the oven and, as someone put it, "the smell of it baking had me salivating for the last couple of hours".

"Tomorrow we are halfway through Ramadan," Hicham said. He was about to continue when there was a disturbance outside the door. He went to investigate, while I continued my nightly love affair with a jug of fresh avocado smoothie.

Hicham leads a diminutive Japanese woman into the room.  She looks to be in total shock.  She mumbles something, but it is either in Japanese or she is so incoherent it is unintelligible. Then she repeats it, a little louder. "Can you help me. Help me. I am frightened."

Aicha takes her to a banquette and seats her, while Salim produces a glass of mint tea and a slice of cake, but the woman is trembling so much that she can't hold the glass.

For the next ten minutes Aicha arms herself with a box of Kleenex and sits with her arm around the sobbing woman.

Eventually we piece together the story. She is a solo traveller on her way around Morocco. Having visited Marrakech, Ouzazarte and Mezouga, she was pretty confident about her ability to look after herself.

What she had not been prepared for was being lost in the Fez Medina at exactly the moment when the usual crowds had gone indoors to eat and the streets became totally empty. When a young man had offered to guide her she became even more fearful and somehow managed to find Riad Rcif.

What happened next was an act of Ramadan kindness. Hicham, even though he had not finished breaking his fast, got changed and told her he would walk with her down to Rcif where he had his car parked. He would then drive her to her hotel.

As she left, the woman glanced around the room and whispered "Thank you".

The look of relief on her face was more nourishing than anything on the table.



Halfway through Ramadan

So, as we were discussing... halfway through Ramadan.

Everyone's Ramadan is different. For my friend Driss, who works every day as a builder, there is a sense that he has conquered the first half. "Just another half to go, ' he says stoically. "What is hardest? Not having a cigarette during the day".

Well, Driss, help is at hand. Dr Ali Ahmed Mashael, the Grand Mufti in the Islamic Affairs and Charitable Activities Department of Dubai says: "The use of nicotine patches in order to refrain from smoking during the month of Ramadan is permitted and does not break the fast. The patch is used as a medicine, and is not consumed as a food item, is the rationale behind this rule. Anything that enters the body though the skin such as an injection or in this case a nicotine patch and is meant to repair rather than feed the body does not break the fast".

For Mustapha, who is spending most of his time sleeping or watching television, Ramadan's cup is half empty. "Only half to go," he says wistfully. "It is going so fast this year." However, he (and almost every Moroccan) is in trouble with the Grand Mufti, who has declared, "It is not permissible for a Muslims to watch TV series. This should not be only in Ramadan, but during the rest of the year as well. In Ramadan, people fasting and watching such serials will surely spoil their fast. The Muslim who is fasting during Ramadan should devote his time to worship and reading the Quran."

But the Grand Mufti would surely approve of the more than 200 young people for whom Ramadan tension is growing as they plunge into the highly competitive world of Qur'anic recitation.

 The National competition for Mohammed VI Qur’an memorisation and declamation award opened on Monday in Rabat, with some 246 people, including 28 females, are taking part in the event after succeeding in the preliminary phases organised locally by the regional offices of Islamic Affairs in coordination with the Councils of Ulema. The jury is composed of Moroccan Ulema specialised in declamation.

Qur'an recital competition in Rabat

Someone who is not fasting, but copping flack over Ramadan is David Abraham, CEO of Britain's Channel 4. He's been grilled by members of the British parliament over the decision to broadcast the call to prayer.

Ralph Lee, Channel 4's head of factual programming, said: "The calls to prayer prompt Muslims to carry out quiet moments of worship, but hopefully they'll also make other viewers sit up and notice that this event is taking place. Observing the adhan on Channel 4 will act as a nationwide tannoy system, a deliberate 'provocation' to all our viewers in the very real sense of the word."

Lee added in an article in the Radio Times: "No doubt Channel 4 will be criticised for focusing attention on a 'minority' religion but that's what we're here to do – provide space for the alternative and a voice to the under-represented.

The decision to broadcast the call to prayer is to be applauded. However, just across the "ditch" in France, tensions have been running for several nights after rioting broke out. The cause? A woman wearing a full hijab, in contravention of French law. The entire mess could have been avoided if the police had exercised a little Ramadan tolerance.

Ramadan food for thought

For those who think that fasting in Morocco is hard work, spare a thought for Muslims in Iraq and Afghanistan, where there is an upsurge in sectarian violence, Syria, where the full-scale bloodshed continues unabated, and Egypt where tensions are running high and the death toll is mounting. And pause to reflect on the impoverished everywhere, for whom a food-laden iftar table is only a dream.

The Ramadan cup may be half empty or half full, but it is a cup we share.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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Monday, July 22, 2013

THE FRANCE-MOROCCO CULTURAL SEASON - NIGHTS OF RAMADAN 2013


After the success of the 2012 edition, the Morocco-France Cultural Season presents its second consecutive year of evening entertainment during the month of Ramadan, throughout Morocco. 


Ramadan Nights offer a rich and varied program in 8 cities with 150 touring artists, 33 concerts, 92 000 spectators. This year, the Nights will be presented in Agadir, Casablanca, El Jadida, Essaouira, Fes, Kenitra, Marrakech, Meknes, Rabat, Safi, Tangier and Tetouan.

The Ramadan NightsTheywill focus on the musical cultures of the Mediterranean: Algeria, Egypt, Spain, France, Palestine and Tunisia, enriched by the presence of a group from Mongolia.



PROGRAMME:
Les Nuits du Ramadan 2013.

Dans le cadre de la Saison Culturelle France-Maroc

Programme :

MUSÉE BATHA, 22h, ENTREE LIBRE

LUNDI 22 JUILLET
- MAALAM GNAOUI YASSINE BOUDOUAIA
- EMEL MATHLOUTHI

MARDI 23 JUILLET
- MALHOUNE DE FES
- ORCHESTRE NATIONAL DE BARBÈS

SAMEDI 27 JUILLET
- CHOUKRI DIWAN ET LES JILALIATS DE FÈS
- EGYPTIAN PROJECT

SATURDAY, JULY 27
- CHOUKRI DIWAN JILALIATS AND OF FES
- EGYPTIAN PROJECT




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Ramadan Diary ~ It's all about sharing


Ramadan is a time of sharing and while sharing a meal is the most common form, there is much more to it than that, as today's leaked excerpt from the Ramadan Diary reveals...


A wonderful story of sharing was posted yesterday by a number of friends. Originally written by Souad Mekhennet in Casablanca, it is a story of sharing across religious boundaries - Souad called it "Lifting the Veil"

“Eat the Harira, eat while it’s hot. Don’t be ashamed,” the host insisted, repeating this polite order three more times. Harira is a thick soup of tomatoes, chickpeas, meat and various spices that Moroccan Muslims traditionally eat in the holy month of Ramadan during the time when they break the fast.

Only on this night, the host and cook of this Ramadan meal was a Jewish woman, Suzanne Abittan, who invited Muslim and Jewish neighbours and friends to her home in the city centre of Casablanca, two floors above a synagogue.

Twelve people sat around a table laden with dates, traditional Moroccan pancakes, and sweets: nine women and three men—five of them Muslims and seven Jews.

“For generations Muslims and Jews grew up together here in Morocco, we are brothers and sisters and in some cases shared even the same mother’s milk,” Abittan said in a loud and strong voice, balancing a tray with hard boiled eggs and cut cucumbers as she walked from the kitchen into the living room.

The 59-year-old has worked for many years as a community outreach aide, helping poor families to access education for their children. “Jews and Muslims,” she said, “we don’t make a difference.”

But while the dinner symbolised a tolerance that has existed in this corner of the Maghreb for thousands of years, some Moroccans also worry about the effect of Arab Spring in their neighbouring countries.

“All these countries are turning into chaos, the radicalisation is increasing,” said Souad Fetouak, who works at the ministry of interior and is a friend of Abittan. Together they have created an association for tolerance to bring together Muslims, Jews and Christians in Casablanca.

“I am worried when I see what is happening in the countries around us,” said Fetouak, who is a Muslim. Her dark brown eyes looked over the table full of food and she sipped a cup of coffee—her first after a long day of fasting. “The countries are ending up in big messes.” (full story here)

Sharing a meal is the most common form of Ramadan sharing

Sharing takes many forms during Ramadan. Most of it intentional, but some, unintentional, or should I say "unavoidable"?  Like the music. Celebration is plentiful when the sun goes down here in Fez, and music and poetry are commonly part of the gatherings. You don't have to be invited to listen, as it is everywhere. And it is not only the Dkak beating his drum to announce meal times.

Walking down a local street I can hear the nafar (long trumpets) echoing through the alleyways of the medina, and from a nearby home, voices soaring, singing praises to the Prophet Muhammad.

Ramadan is an especially sacred month and performers tend to reflect and shape this sacred time by giving concerts of samā` wa madīḥ. Samā` wa madīḥ refers to poetry, recited or sung, that focuses on praise and exaltation, usually of the Prophet.

Walking the streets it is obvious that there is a greater level of charity towards the poor. Although there is a special time at the end of Ramadan for giving, it has started early and food and money are being given to the needy. It will increase during Eid al-Fitr which falls on the first day of Shawwal, the month which follows Ramadan in the Islamic calendar. That is a time to give in charity to those in need, and celebrate with family and friends the completion of a month of blessings and joy.

Before the day of Eid, during the last few days of Ramadan, each Muslim family gives a determined amount as a donation to the poor. Although the amount is actually announced on TV, this donation is usually of actual food - rice, barley, dates, rice - to ensure that the needy can have a holiday meal and participate in the celebration. This donation is known as sadaqah al-fitr (charity of fast-breaking).

Of course there is much more to look forward to! Leilat Sabawachrine - literally the night of the 27th day of Ramadan. It is a night especially for children - a time when they dress in their finest clothes. For girls this also means having their hands and feet covered in beautiful henna designs and wearing makeup and jewellery. Once dressed, they take to the streets where many of them were happy to receive gifts of sweets or money.

leilat sabawachrine

Before the 27th there is the prayer night (the 26th) Leilat Alkadr or "The Night of Destiny" which always falls on one of the last 10 days of Ramadan. This event is one of the most blessed of all nights in the Islamic calendar year.

Laylat Alkadr (or al Qadr) is known as the Night of Power as it commemorates the night when, according to Islamic belief, God (Allah) revealed the Qur’an to the prophet Mohammad.

Then, of course there is virtual sharing. Moroccans spend more time on the net during the month of Ramadan than at any other time of the year. Every day millions of fasters, especially young people, share a huge number of publications of all kinds: articles, photos, videos. It is interesting to note that net giants like Google have been providing a content hub dedicated especially to the sacred month.

Warda Al-Jazairia - The Algerian Rose

Even the Google search page features specially selected images such as: Warda Al-Jazairia (Arabic: وردة الجزائرية‎ literally The Algerian Rose). Commonly referred to as just Warda, she was an Algerian-Lebanese singer who was well known for her pan-Arabist songs and music.

There is even a "Ramadan for Geeks" which the Casablanca Social Media Club has organised for the last three years. And, in the spirit of Ramadan, they call themselves "Ftour 2.0" and get together to share expertise and Ftour (Ramadan breakfast) Those who can not come can participate by posting comments on Twitter using the hashtag # Ftour20.

Finally, here's a little story about sharing to put a smile on your face in the hours before you can put food or water in your mouth.

Wanting to have a break from a traditional Ramadan F'tour, the elderly Omar and his equally elderly wife, Fatiha, decided to visit the new Burger King restaurant. After looking at what was on offer, Omar ordered one burger, one cup of chips (French fries) and one bottle of coke.

When the food arrived Omar took the burger and carefully cut it in half, placing one half in front of his wife and taking the other half himself.

He then carefully counted out the chips, dividing them into two piles and neatly placed one pile in front of his wife.

"Bismillah!" said Omar, then took a sip of the coke. His wife then repeated the blessing and, after taking a sip, set the cup down between them.

As he began to eat his few bites of burger, the people around them kept looking over and whispering, “That poor old couple – all they can afford is one meal for the two of them.”

Then as Omar began to eat his chips a young man came to the table. "It's Ramadan, Sidi, please let me buy another meal so you can both eat."

Omar shook his head, “We are just fine, khoya. We are used to sharing everything."

The other people noticed that Omar's wife hadn’t eaten a single bite, but just sat there watching her husband eat and occasionally taking turns sipping the Coke.

Again, the young man came over and begged them to let him buy another meal for them.

This time Omar's wife, Fatiha, said, “No, thank you, we are used to sharing everything.”

As Omar finished and was wiping his face neatly with the napkin, the young man again came over to his wife who had yet to eat a single bite of food and asked “What is it you are waiting for?”

She glanced at Omar and then smiled at the young man. "I'm waiting to share the teeth."

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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More and More French Muslims Opt for Burial in France


In a fascinating BBC article, Hugh Schofield explores why so many French Muslims choose burial abroad rather than having their bodies returned to their country of origin. Here is an edited extract

The old cemetery in Fez

From working-class neighbourhoods of French towns and cities to the villages of Algeria and Morocco, a strange kind of reverse migration is under way - of the dead. Every year thousands of bodies are being repatriated from France to the Maghreb, as Muslim families return their loved ones to the soil of their original home. It is a costly and complicated business, involving flights, consular administrators and specialist funeral providers. It also prompts the question: why not get buried in France?

After all, France is the country where these families are now destined to live. Would it not be a sign of successful integration if France were also where they chose to rest when they died?

The answer to that question has to do with the complexities of national identity in a world of mass migration. But also with France's own obsession with secular "republican" values, and its reluctance to give ground - literally - on matters of faith.

At the el-Ouadjib (Duty, in Arabic) funeral parlour in Lille in northern France, Abdallah Hadid receives three or four calls a day from families that have just had a death.

Abdallah Hadid in front of his funeral parlour in Lille

Hadid says, "While the bodies are prayed over and put in the shroud, our administrative team has to rush to get all the documents: from the city hall, from the police, from the consulates. Then we get the plane tickets for the family, and pay for the coffin to go in the hold. People don't realise it, but on most flights from France to the big cities of North Africa there are bodies in the hold - between one and four, depending on the size of the plane.

"Sometimes it is the villagers back in the old country who club together to pay for the removal. It costs about 2,500 euros (£2,150). But more and more families are using insurance companies, paying a little every year to make sure there is the money for a repatriation when they die."

According to Abdallah Hadid, there are two main reasons for sending the bodies of loved ones back to the Maghreb. The first is the pull of the heart - memories, loyalties, a wistful longing for the "old country".

The second is a more practical consideration: the absence of Muslim cemeteries in France.

France calls itself "laic" (secular). For 100 years there has been a strict separation of religion and state. This means that when it comes to burial places, town councils - which administer the country's cemeteries - refuse any special provision for faiths.



For years, French Muslims have been clamouring for designated areas in municipal graveyards - what they call carres confessionnels. In these, Muslim tombs would be directed towards Mecca as required by religion.

But they are blocked by an institutional reluctance on the part of the French authorities.

In practice, more and more Muslim areas are being created in cemeteries, simply because Muslim graves are being put next to each other. But they are tolerated rather than authorised. There is certainly no official policy to create them.

Another problem for Muslims is that space in French cemeteries is normally provisional. Families take out a lease for 30 or 50 years, after which the bodies are put in a common grave.

But this offends many Muslims, who believe bodies in the ground should not be touched. They are reluctant to burden future generations with the cost of renewing the lease of a French grave, so prefer to have their bodies repatriated.

Islamic Funeral Rituals:Islamic law dictates that the funeral or Janazah should take place as soon as possible after death, with the following steps: Bathing the dead body. Placing the corpse in a white cotton or linen cloth shroud. Funeral prayer. Burial of the dead body in a grave (cremation is forbidden). Positioning the body so the head faces Mecca

"This question of carres confessionnels is extremely important to us," says Dalil Boubakeur, who as Rector of the Grand Mosque in Paris is the nearest there is to a leader of French Islam. "There are now six million Muslims in France. They pay taxes, they vote, they take part in local government. Why should they not have a say in how their dead are buried?"

See the full story here: BBC Magazine

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Sunday, July 21, 2013

Ramadan Diary ~ Just When You Thought It Couldn't Get More Crazy...

The tenth* day of Ramadan  was a day of great drama, high speed car rides in an attempt to find drugs, and a near death experience.  Join us once again as we bring you (thanks to Wikileaks) another leaked excerpt from the highly classified Ramadan Diary
*Maybe the eleventh? Things kind of blur after a few days fasting 


It had started well, with cooler weather and everyone I ran into being in a happy mood. This was good, because it is just too easy to get a little grumpy when fasting. 

Then everything changed. A friend, Rachida, was cleaning a courtyard fountain when she was stung twice by a yellow paper wasp. These things are no joke. Forget about bee stings and ant bites - this little bugger packs a powerful dose of toxins that are its defence mechanism against animals and people cleaning fountains.

The culprit at the scene of the incident

At first it seemed just mildly painful, but within minutes Rachida's hand had swollen up and a rash of hives had started to cover her entire body. Then, to make things worse, her tongue went numb, curled at a strange angle and started to swell alarmingly. She began to feel nauseous and was obviously extremely distressed.

While she hurried off to the local pharmacy, I went to an ATM to get cash for medicine. When I returned to the pharmacy I found it was closed and Rachida had vanished. Then nothing. No phone contact, no text message - nothing for an hour and a half.

During that time I cheered myself up by reading up on anaphylactic shock. It was not reassuring, particularly the part about people dying within ten minutes or so.

It starts as a sting and ends up like something from a horror movie

Meanwhile Rachida had jumped into a taxi and headed to one of the community hospitals. It was closed for the holidays or Ramadan or simply because it was Saturday.

Rachida caught a cab and raced home to get help, but, as she got out of the taxi she saw a friend who was a doctor. He took one look at her and then bundled her into his office and gave her two injections. "Take this," he said and handed her a prescription.  "You have anaphylactic shock. Find a pharmacy fast and forget about Ramadan. You must eat something and then take the medicine." He refused to accept any money for the injections that probably saved her life.

Rachida's brother joined her and, finding a taxi, they scoured Fez for a pharmacy that was open. Thankfully, the taxi driver realised how serious the situation was and drove at high speed, without stopping at traffic lights. Finally found a pharmacy open at Oued Fez. The taxi driver also refused to take any money.

Thankfully the story ended well, and what was so wonderful was the way everyone assisted without wanting money. The Ramadan spirit was alive and well, and so was Rachida. *

*Note to myself: buy an epi-pen


An epinephrine autoinjector is a medical device used to deliver a measured dose (or doses) of epinephrine (also known as adrenaline) using autoinjector technology, most frequently for the treatment of acute allergic reactions to avoid or treat the onset of anaphylactic shock. Trade names for this device include EpiPen, Twinject, Adrenaclick, Anapen, Jext, Allerject, and Auvi-Q. The EpiPen was originally derived from the ComboPen, a product developed for the military for treating exposure to nerve agents.

As we have previously noted, Ramadan is not only about fasting, prayer and purification and surviving wasp stings, it is also about television. And while people are grumbling about the local programmes being about as entertaining as watching grass grow, foreign television has suddenly erupted as a hot issue.

"The way they show Moroccan women, is an insult," fumes Mustapha. 'It used to be just those Gulf Arabs who portrayed our women like that, now it is the Saudi television."

We were waiting for the canon to fire to mark the end of the day's fast. We both check our watches and see that we have time to discuss it. "What's the problem?" I ask and add the fact that I don't watch television.

Mustapha shook his head. "Hsuma. Shame... just hsuma."
"The image of the Moroccan woman has been subject to one more popular media distortion. A soap opera, exclusively designed for broadcast in Ramadan in Saudi Arabia, entitled “Kalam A’nass” (people’s talk), joined the list of Gulf countries’ TV products that distort the image of Moroccan women." - Youssef Sourgo Morocco World News
According to critics, it was episode #6 of Kalam A’nass that truly got up people's noses. The episode was titled Al Khirfan (the sheep) and its depiction of Moroccan women was seen by most as downright shameful. The episode shows an ambitious young Saudi woman who sets up a call-centre business and hires Moroccan girls to work in it.

The Moroccan girls’ task in this episode was duping Saudi young men by seducing them and selling them illusory promises of love via phone calls in exchange for money - a practice known as “love trading.” Also in the same episode, a Moroccan woman is depicted as leading other girls within the call centre in their sordid endeavours, by instructing them on how to dupe “the sheep.”

Mustapha claims that Moroccan TV viewers are so incensed they have taken the drastic step of actually going back to watching the local 2M channel.  That'll teach those Saudis a lesson.

And while on the subject of gripes, our fellow diarist from Morocco World News, Erin MacDonald, has had a word or two to say about "obnoxious" foreign tourists....

I don’t believe that it’s necessary to become an expert on a different country before you decide to pay a visit. Actually, having a few surprises after you arrive, and learning new things about a country during your visit is what makes up half the fun of traveling. And indeed some of the mistakes you make will likely be a source of light hearted amusement for locals.

But, it is certainly necessary to learn a few basic things about the country that you plan to visit. You can likely do this by a quick google search and skimming through Wikipedia and a few other articles you will undoubtedly come across. It is also always prudent to consult your nation’s travel advisory.

And doing all of this should take you….a whopping 15-20 minutes. Maybe a half hour. Let’s face it, you can probably do that on your Iphone while waiting at the passport office or even while waiting to board your plane. Basically, I don’t think there’s any excuse for not making sure you know the basic facts about the country you are planning to visit. And even this small effort, will likely prevent you from making any disastrous mistakes once you arrive.

However, while in every country I have visited- I have seen tourists do some appalling things, which were not only rude but completely disrespectful of the country which tolerated their presence. I would like to assume that this is a result of ignorance, and not a total disregard for the culture they are visiting. I’m not totally sure. All I can say is that at times tourists can be obnoxious and disrespectful of their host country. As a foreigner in Morocco, and as somebody who loves traveling and plans to do much more of it in the future, this annoys me.



A few afternoons ago, I saw what was actually the worst example of obnoxious tourist’s behaviour that I have ever seen. A woman who I will assume is North American by her appearance (perhaps incorrectly) came out of a McDonald’s wearing clothes that would be considered tastelessly revealing even by North American standards and proceeded to walk down the street stuffing her face with ice cream.

Perhaps she was unaware it is Ramadan…although I think this is highly unlikely. This is what drove me stop walking and stare open mouthed at this woman as she walked by me. I was not the only person in the vicinity to do this.

As a Canadian, but also a North American (by North American here I mean Canada and the US) in Morocco, I have two reactions to this incident, and others like it. The first, is that I am completely humiliated by this behaviour by someone who shares my continent of origin and undoubtedly had access to the information that would inform her of her wrongdoings. This embarrasses me because there will certainly be people who observe this woman’s behaviour and view it as representative of all North Americans.

My second reaction to this is that I would like to sincerely apologise for the behaviour of many North Americans abroad who have given all of us a bad name. The vast majority of us enjoy access to education and internet. Those few unfortunate Canadians and Americans who do not have access to these things, are also without the means to travel, so they are not the ones making fools of themselves while abroad.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

Thanks to Morocco World News for Erin's observations on tourists during Ramadan. Erin MacDonald, is a Canadian MA candidate. She grew up in Halifax Nova Scotia where she earned an Honours degree in Religious Studies from St. Mary’s University. She is now earning an MA in Dispute Resolution from the University of Victoria, British Columbia. She is currently fulfilling the internship requirement of her MA degree, working at La Voix de la Femme Amazighe in Rabat Morocco.

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